Will Running Nitro Engine Clean Unburnt Fuel

Starting time of all, this Nitro Guide and FAQs has been worked on past I (Sean Coots) and rccardude (Eric Brown) for the past ii months. It is not consummate and will be constantly updated and altered. If someone feels that our data is incorrect, please PM Eric or I near the problem and we can come to a resolution. The FAQ guide will exist changed fairly often with new questions sent in by anyone to I (apollo) or Eric (rccardude). More guides should be available soon too. We hope that this guide is beneficial to many, and nosotros urge you to post a link to this guide whenever necessary. Thank you.

Nitro Engine Suspension In Guide:

Okay, so y'all just got your brand new nitro R/C, yous are psyched and ready to tear upwards the streets, but showtime you lot must perform a proper break in procedure for your engine unless you lot desire to be ownership a new one very soon.

And then to commencement off, you will need to correctly suit your linkages to work properly (come across Linkage Setup beneath) and make sure your fuel tubing is routed properly (tank pickup to carburetor nipple, pipe pressure nipple to tank force per unit area fitting.

First, you will demand to preheat the engine by taking a hairdryer or heat gun and heating the top of the engines cooling head for well-nigh a minute or a little more. Heating the engine up relieves cylinder compression; therefore the engine volition exist much easier to crank over.

Side note: Pinch will make your engine difficult to plough over. This is why your engine always seems to get stuck, the reason information technology happens is the cylinder is smaller at the elevation than information technology is at the lesser; therefore it'south harder to push the piston through at the height. The reason for compression is compression, since nitro's don't take piston rings, we have to use pinch.

At present you just demand to fill the fuel tank up with proper fuel and prime number the engine.

Priming Techniques:
-Tank primer: Some fuel tanks are equipped with a built in tank primer; in this instance, all you lot have to practise is press downwards on the priming rod and lookout the fuel become to the carburetor.
-Stinger priming: If your fuel tank is not equipped with a congenital in primer, so just put your finger over the piping's stinger (nigh people just call information technology the opening in the pipage) and then turn the engine over by ways of pull beginning or whatever. This will push the fuel to the carburetor.
-Oral fissure priming: While information technology does sound discouraging, all you take to exercise is remove the fuel tubing from the exhaust pipage pressure plumbing equipment and blow into it (remember not to suck in or you lot volition be drinking hazardous fuel), this will cause the fuel to be forced through the tubing and to the carburetor.

When priming an engine, there is no demand to shove excess fuel into it in hopes of information technology starting easier (actually the opposite of what y'all recall), all that is required is to bring the fuel to the carburetor, no more, once you run into it just barely get in and then stop and that is enough. If you get skillful enough at priming, then your engine can beginning easily on the 1st pull.

Once you have these steps completed, plow on the radio transmitter (TX) and the receiver (RX) and do a quick run through, testing brakes, linkages, carburetor opening, and steering. Now place your fully charged glow igniter on the glow plug and creepo the engine by pull start, roto-showtime, or whatever is used.

In one case the engine starts, get out the glow plug igniter in place and brainstorm to slowly drive the motorcar effectually while varying the engines rpm. Now remove the igniter, if the engine immediately dies then it is running besides rich. (Now is the perfect fourth dimension to read the tuning article below) It is critical at this bespeak to become your engine to a minimal operating temperature, I recommend this to be anywhere from 200*-240* for break in. At this point, it is okay to exercise 1 2nd WOT (wide open up throttle, aka 100% throttle) bursts. After driving the vehicle effectually for 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down (read "Engine Stopping Methods" below") Now y'all will demand to fix the engine at BDC (Bottom Dead Middle, when the piston is all the mode downwardly in the cylinder), to practise this, turn the flywheel (or pull starter) until y'all feel the least amount of resistance and then finish there. This ensures that the piston will non be stuck in the top of the cylinder while it cools. Annotation: during engine suspension in, small metal fragments can melt themselves to the glow plug therefore fouling it, so it is wise to have at least 1 spare glow plug for pause in.

Let the engine sit and absurd downwards to room temperature, you tin lessen the cooling fourth dimension by bravado compressed air over the head or a hairdryer set to cool. DO Non SHOCK It Cool WITH Any LIQUID AT ALL. At present, repeat the process, adding nigh 1 infinitesimal of run time to each wheel completed. Do this until the engine has run about xv-20 minutes total. At present yous are ready to cease properly tuning the engine and then rip it up wherever you desire.

Nitro Engine Tuning Nuts:

Notation: ALL TUNING MUST BE DONE AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE

Rich: An excessive amount of fuel entering the engine, more fuel means more oil, which
typically lowers the operating temperature. Rich=counterclockwise

Lean: An insufficient amount of fuel inbound the engine, less fuel means less oil, this
causes more friction, higher temperatures, and engine damage. Lean=clockwise

High Speed Needle:

The Loftier Speed Needle (HSN) valve is the alpine valve that sticks out from the height of your carburetor. Its job is to control the master flow of fuel to the carburetor. If you lean out the HSN, the LSN (Low Speed Needle) will be automatically leaned too (remember of it this way, the HSN is the garden hose faucet which controls all of what goes in, the LSN is the nozzle which controls the verbal corporeality that comes out). The HSN mainly effects the acme speed of the motorcar. If your HSN is fix likewise rich, the engine volition typically non reach its full RPM potential. If the HSN is also lean, y'all can experience hesitation, overheating and flameouts (engine instantly shutting off at random or at higher RPM'southward). WARNING!!!! The HSN IS Not to be used as a thermostat. Yes tuning effects running temperature, simply only half of information technology. In the cold, you volition typically accept to prepare your needles richer because cold air carries more oxygen, therefore with the previous settings you volition exist running as well lean.

Depression Speed Needle:

The Low Speed Needle (LSN) is used for fine adjusting the rate of fuel flowing into the engine from the HSN. If your LSN is as well lean and then you lot will accept erratic idling, it might desire to drive off without you lot, and it can suddenly shut off (flame out). A feature of an overly lean LSN will be a random surging and sound "angry" so to speak. It as well will have sporadic RPM increases. Too rich of a LSN will make the idle audio deep and rough, at idle the RPM will slowly decrease and and then close off due to the backlog fuel building up, it volition as well cause consistent sluggish acceleration all the fashion upwardly the RPM range, and this is what makes it different from a lean bog.

The best mode to examination your LSN is to go your engine running at normal operating temperature, drive it effectually, and and so let it sit down and idle for 30 seconds. In one case 30 seconds is over, employ a lot of throttle, if information technology is rich yous volition observe slow, gurgly acceleration, if this happens, lean the LSN out past 1/eighth of a turn and and then test it once again, if it is lean, chances are it volition flame out or have random surges. In this case you would richen the LSN up by ane/8th of a plough at a time. Your LSN volition be set up well-nigh optimum position when you have trivial to no hesitation afterward thirty seconds of idling.

Keep in listen that an engines melody changes day past day, every time you lot get our your engine and run it, you lot should tweak the needles a little bit (typically). 1 twenty-four hour period your engine can run fine, the next day it can exist running extremely lean.
NOTE: Tune the HSN get-go because it controls the full corporeality of fuel inbound the carburetor, and then tune the LSN considering it is a fine adjustment screw.

As a side notation, if you practise a lot of broad open running at WOT (Wide Open Throttle, a.k.a. total throttle) your engine will need extra lubrication and it could need to exist set 1/4th plow rich to ensure proper lubrication to your engine at high RPM'south.

Here is a good piddling graphic that for the tape I did non brand, I simply plant it very helpful.

Vapor Lock:

If you have always shut off your engine or had it flame out while yous are using it, and yous find that information technology's nearly impossible to restart, you are almost likely experiencing something chosen "vapor lock". Vapor lock is caused by the rut from the engine transferring to the carburetor. In plough information technology makes the carburetor so hot that whatever fuel that enters information technology boils off instantly into vapor. Hence the proper name "vapor lock". A common giveaway to vapor lock is when you prime your engine; you'll encounter that the fuel in your fuel line is pushed away from the carburetor. The only way to run the engine again is to cool the carburetor off enough so that information technology does not boil the fuel. The nearly mutual mode is to permit your engine sit for 5 minutes and and then endeavor again. Another way is to utilize cans of compressed CO2 or compressed air cans used for airbrushing and spray the carburetor. Or you can pull off your air filter and dump a little scrap of fuel over the carburetor which will rapidly cool it. Just be conscientious not to go fuel on your brakes or electronics.

Air Leaks:

An air leak is when your engine has unregulated air being sucked in. By unregulated I mean it doesn't come in through the carburetor. This causes a trouble because it tin suck in air causing your engine which could be tuned perfectly, to run extremely lean and crusade engine harm. It could also cause your extremely rich engine to run lean and well over 300 degrees. If yous have an air leak yous tin look forwards to inconsistent tuning and idling, it will seem impossible to find a good tune. Keep in listen that even brand new engines can take air leaks. Here is a good link on How To Seal Your Engine. For the record I did not write that, I am but posting a link to a helpful guide and then moderators, please don't delete this. Oh and a good place to go RTV silicone sealant and your local auto parts store. You tin can also use the stuff to seal side exhaust headers and make a gasket so you will never rip another paper gasket once more.

Glow Plug Guide:

Without a glow plug, your engine won't run, simple enough. Now without the right glow plug, your engine just won't run properly, simple concept. But you are saying to yourself, "Well, how practise I know what the proper glow plug is for me?" Well this is a fairly simple question to answer. Glow plugs work past adding compression, heat, and a catalytic reaction betwixt the methanol in the fuel and the platinum in the coil.

Companies charge per unit and sell their glow plugs past their "heat range". The different general oestrus ranges are common cold, medium, and hot. The rut range of the glow plug is what determines the exact time that the fuel/air mixture being compressed in the cylinder ignites and pushes the piston down. While this sounds like a simple matter, it is absolutely vital to your engines performance. And so let's continue to the function of each type of glow plug and their proper applications.

Hot Glow Plugs:

When yous run an engine with a hot glow plug, the compressed fuel/air mixture in the cylinder ignites earlier (more advanced ignition) than a medium or a cold plug would. Hot glow plugs are unremarkably used with low-nitro content (5-twenty%) fuels to advance the timing and igniter the fuel before. Lower nitro fuels fire slower, therefore the mixture must exist ignited sooner for the engine to run properly. To hot of a glow plug for your certain nitro per centum can cause pre-detonation and permanent engine damage. An example of a hot glow plug would be the O.South. A3.

Medium Glow Plugs:

Medium glow plugs piece of work the same mode that hot glow plugs practice, just the do not ignite the fuel as early (more retarded or delayed ignition). Medium glow plugs are ofttimes used in medium-nitro fuels (twenty-thirty%). An case of a medium glow plug would exist the HPI R3.

Cold Glow Plugs:

Cold glow plugs are just like the other glow plugs, but instead, they are meant to be used in engines running high-nitro fuels (30%+). An case of a cold glow plug would be the HPI R5. Cold glow plugs typically take a thicker element in them than a medium or hot glow plug.

Turbo vs. Non-Turbo glow plugs:

Glow plugs come in 2 different styles, Turbo and Non-Turbo. Now before you beginning thinking "Oh turbo must hateful fast, I need that" lets discuss the difference in them.

Turbo Glow Plugs:

Turbo glow plugs differ from standard, non-turbo plugs because they use a tapered border to make a tight seal between the head button and the cylinder. This lets them to run without a copper washer for a gasket, and too allows them to have a smoother caput button which adds a tiny bit of power. An example of a turbo glow plug would be the O.S. P3. Notation that yous can clearly see the tapered border.

Non-turbo glow plugs do not have a tapered border to course a seal between the cylinder and the head button, Instead the apply a copper washer. Non-turbo glow plugs (commonly called standard glow plugs) use a dissimilar head button than a turbo plug would. The head push button is non as smooth; this in turn takes away a tiny flake of power. A good example of a standard plug would be the O.Southward. viii

How To Read Glow Plugs:

If y'all know much about 1:1 calibration car racing, you will know that teams examine the spark plugs that take been used in the engine while racing, then they use a method chosen "spark plug reading" to determine how the engine is tuned. Well for scale model cars running 2-stroke nitro engines, there is a method of doing this. It is chosen "glow plug reading". Here is a general how-to guide on reading glow plugs. (Note: this is meant for new glow plugs, information technology cannot be accurately done on glow plugs that have been run for a while)

1. Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum ability
2. Wire and surrounding lesser of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = very close to optimum power
iii. Wire and surrounding lesser of plug dry out, wire totally greyness but not distorted optimum power
iv. Wire and surrounding bottom of pug dry out, wire distorted = slightly lean "DANGER!"
v. Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt upwards = extremely lean possible engine damage!

Note: For the record I did not write this "How To Read Glow Plugs" guide and I am using it but as a helpful guide.

Consummate Nitro Fuel Guide:

Most two-stroke glow fuel engines (with the exception of a few) run on what is commonly called "glow fuel" or "nitro fuel". Basic glow fuel is comprised of iii main ingredients: nitromethane, methanol, and oil. Sometimes fuel manufacturers will add friction modifiers (a.k.a. additives) to help better the overall operation of the fuel. Simply I will non be going into details on additives.

Fuel Can Go Bad:

You might be asking yourself right at present, "What makes my fuel go bad?" Well there are a few things that can cause this. Nearly of the glow fuel that you use is comprised mainly of methanol (alcohol). One of the characteristics of methanol is that it is "hygroscopic" , this means that it will freely pull wet from the air and absorb it since water is soluble in methanol.

Contamination with water is the main reason that fuel goes bad. Contaminated fuel often makes an engine difficult to start, melody, or go on running consistently. Some other enemy of glow fuel is the lord's day's UV rays. These UV rays in sunlight can slowly break down the nitromethane in the fuel, peculiarly if information technology is stored in sunlight for extended periods of time.

Proper Fuel Storage:

Aye, in that location is a proper way to practice everything, even storing your own glow fuel. Ever noticed when yous are almost finished off with a jug of fuel, that at that place is a lot of empty space in the jug? This is the perfect opportunity for condensation to form in your fuel jug and contaminate it. Below is a motion-picture show of how to store your fuel. All fuel should exist kept in a cool, dark, dry area if possible.

Try to squeeze every bit much air out of the jug as possible, but be careful, squeezing the jug besides hard can puncture an edge (like I have done) and therefore ruin the jug.

Call back these little things?

Whenever you open up upwards a fresh gallon of fuel, make certain to put this dorsum in the top to provide a moisture barrier.

Oil Content:

All internal combustion engines require oil to operate, if in that location were no oil in the fuel, our engines would just seize upward and never work again. Although this is true for 2-strokes and 4-strokes akin, different methods are employed to reach this.

Our two-stroke glow fuel already has information technology oil mixed into information technology. This is what makes it elementary; i of the not then uncomplicated parts is the actual oil content in the fuel. Though there is not much to say about this, anywhere from 8-18% are adequate for glow engines used in land vehicles. Fuels ranging from 8-x% in oil content are considered depression-oil fuels, and are primarily intended for the experienced tuners who are trying to get the most power out of their engines while racing. For normal bashing, anywhere from xi-xvi% oil content is adequate; whatsoever more than than xvi% oil content does piddling to provide extra protection.

Oil Types:

In our glow fuels, there are 2 main types of lubricants (a.k.a. oils) primarily used in them; these are castor oils and synthetic oils. The general dominion of thumb is to buy a castor/synthetic blend fuel, so yous get the all-time of both worlds.

Castor Oils:

Castor oil is derived from the bean of a castor plant (originally used as a natural laxative) and is the all-time lubricant you can accept in a fuel. It provides the best over-lean protection that you tin can get, and it only keeps breaking downward into a amend and ameliorate lubricant as information technology is heated (combusted) in an engine. Finally at around 800*F if memory serves me correct, information technology burns, which is much higher than synthetic oils. After running fuels with high brush oil content you might notice a chocolate-brown "varnish" on the engine'southward internals, this "varnish" is an anti-scuff layer left behind from the castor oil, nigh people believe this is bad and remove it, however, this helps protect the engine (to a certain extent) in the example of an over-lean run.

Castor oil is mainly used as an EP (Extreme Pressure level) condiment in nitro engines because they create an excess amount of friction due to the RPM's that they crank out. If y'all have always tried to purchase pure castor oil, particularly AA grade, so you have learned that it isn't a cheap product, this is why companies use less castor oil (if any at all) in their fuel blends. It is highly encouraged that when choosing a fuel, that there be at least some castor oil content in it. I myself have run on fuel that used nix but castor oil in it, and I can say from experience that it drastically lowers the temperatures and allows you to run leaner (which helps efficiency) without any detrimental effects. This is how some fuel brands like White Lightning are able to run such low oil content in their fuels.

Synthetic oils are typically derived from refined petroleum extracts, and are ofttimes chemically altered to be a custom friction modifier. Constructed oils are cheaper to manufacture, therefore most fuel companies brand this a majority of their oil content in a gallon of fuel. Synthetic oils are but equally "slippery" every bit castor oil, but the main difference is that brush oil does not typically burn in the combustion process, while the synthetic oil is often completely consumed. Synthetic oils provide very lilliputian over-lean protection when being used.

Some fuel blends from Blue Thunder run full-constructed oils in them. I have had personal experience with these and exercise not like them considering they are non very forgiving if you run lean. However, many accept had success with them; with the right needle setting you volition get corking protection from them also. Just as an example, here is a picture of an O.S. 12TZ that was ran a petty too lean on Blue Thunder.

Nitromethane Content:

Although our fuels are mainly methanol, we love to call them "nitro" fuels because information technology but sounds better. But what is this "nitro" referring to? Well if y'all read this whole article, you will know that nitro is curt for "nitromethane". Just why do our fuels apply nitromethane?

Well for starters, nitromethane allows our engines to gain more ability because it is basically liquid oxygen, then to speak. It is an oxidizer, which means that during a chemical reaction, it releases oxygen. Oxygen is what reacts with the fuel, therefore more than oxygen = more fuel able to be burned. The more than fuel that is able to be burned, the more than ability that can exist made. So in a nutshell, more nitro = more than power, less nitro = less power, simple plenty.

The second reason that nitromethane is used in our glow fuels is that is makes tuning A LOT easier (and starting for that matter). If y'all take ever tried to melody an engine on zero-nitro fuel, y'all will realize that makes less power for starters, and that the tuning needles are a lot more sensitive to input.

Higher Nitro Content:

Raising the nitro content is a uncomplicated way to add together more power, just in that location are besides other things you must exercise. When you raise the nitro content in your fuel, you are capable of called-for more fuel. This creates a larger "bang" in the cylinder, therefore raising the pressure level. If your pressure gets too loftier, you will encounter pre-detonation which can crusade serious damage to your engine.

When changing to high-nitro fuels, it is unremarkably advised to add a head shim which lowers pinch, and to run a slightly cooler glow plug which also helps forestall pre-detonation.

Lower Nitro Content:

Lowering the nitro content in your fuel can reduce the ability output of your engine. When you lower the nitro content in your fuel, commonly you should simply run a hotter plug. Whenever this is non sufficient, you must also raise the pinch in the engine by removing a head shim if possible.

The FAQ department should exist upwards presently. Both Eric and I ask that you please merely link to this post and non just re-create and paste our work that has taken us months to compile. Thanks

Source: https://rcuniverse.com/forum/car-nitro-gas-engines-269/5517128-nitro-guide-faqs.html

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